h1

In Praise of Blue Chair Fruit

June 11, 2010

 

Last weekend my nephew picked up a case of apricots from a roadside stand on his way home from college near Sacramento. I turned them into two cases of apricot jam, that now join the case of strawberry jam I made from small Seascape strawberries.

I am proud of all my jars lined up on the counter, but that’s nothing compared to how much jam Rachel Saunders makes at Blue Chair Fruit.  Rachel worked in restaurants (mostly front of the house) for 10 years as she perfected her jam making skills. In 2008 she launched Blue Chair Fruit. Five minutes after you meet her who realize how serious and passionate she is about jam. When you talk to Rachel you want to make jam and eat jam.  You can’t get it out of your head.

Rachel and I both believe that jam making shouldn’t be a lost art. It really isn’t difficult and tastes so much better than what you buy in the grocery store. You need to start with good quality fruit, make it in small batches so the flavor stays fresh, and cook it just until it sets.

To make her incredible treats she shares kitchen space with Grace Street Catering in Oakland. (This is also the location of the pop up store mentioned in The SF Chronicle a couple of weeks ago.) Rachel, her 6 copper jam kettles, and several assistants transform cases of organic fruit into jars of jams and marmalades. Her suppliers include Blossom Bluff Orchards and Dirty Girl Produce. Last year she made more than 15,000 jars and 90 different kinds of jams and marmalades. This year she hopes to make at least 30,000. If you are impressed with the amount wait until you taste it. It’s amazing.

Her flavors vary from year to year depending on fruit availability. In my refrigerator right now I have Concord Grape and Damson Plum Jam, Spiced Bourbon-Tomato Conserve and Black Fig Jam with Almond, Citron and Clove. This year the late rains destroyed a lot of the apricots and cherries so you won’t be seeing as much of these.

Jam isn’t just a summertime thing for Rachel.  Her favorite jamming season is actually September when the Damson plums arrive but she keeps herself busy in winter too with citrus marmalades.

I met Rachel through our mutual book agent. She asked me to write a quote for the back of the book and after reading the galleys I was in jam heaven and had to meet her. When her book comes out in September you can discover her world of jam making. In the meantime you can purchase her jams at various Farmer’s Markets. Better yet, sign up for one of the classes she is offering this summer. You learn not only jam recipes but also the principles behind her craft. And she includes dinner.

Go to http://www.bluechairfruit.com/ to find out more details.

h1

June 3, 2010

photo by Brooke Gray

In a well run restaurant, both the front and the back of the house are in sync.  A pile of tickets in the kitchen to be “fired” and a jam-packed dining room with standing room only in the bar stretches both sides to the limit.

Luckily at both Waterbar and Farallon the cooks and the waiters have a great relationship. If things get a bit short during service it blows over, or is repaired by the end of the night. It’s important that we all communicate well.

Waiters are the cooks’ eyes and ears to the customers. We rely on them to tell us what the customers are saying both good and not so good. I have a constant dialogue with them about the desserts so I can figure out if our customers are happy. (Clean plates are a good indicator too.) 

The waiters also help out before a dessert appears on the menu. If they pass the pastry department at just the right time we hand them a spoon and say- “Taste this.” Not so surprisingly, most of them look our way every time they walk by in hopes of finding a half -created dessert with different sauces and garnishes as we decide what goes best.

For several days before and after a dessert menu change we plate all the desserts right before service:  5:00 for dinner and 11:00 for lunch. (In the restaurant world this is called line-up). At this point waiters and cooks have a chance to try the final version. While we provide a cheat sheet with each dessert menu describing the desserts and all the components, a taste is worth a thousand words. They are in a much better position to talk to a customer if they have tried the dessert themselves. 

For me a good dessert menu is when each waiter tells me their favorite dessert is something different. I figure if their answers vary the menu is balanced and will please all palates. Waiter knowledge and endorsement  is important for all the food but with desserts it’s especially valuable. When the dessert menu arrives, diners may be full or not sure if they want to indulge in something sweet. I rely on the waiters to tell people what they shouldn’t pass up. Tomorrow they can go to the gym and work a little harder but for now enjoy.

h1

The wording of Dessert Menus

May 28, 2010

My blog is also appearing on the Inside Scoop Column of the San Francisco Chronicle website.

After I create a new dessert the next step is to decide how to describe it on the menu. This can actually be tricky. I don’t want it to be wordy but it needs to cover all the elements of the dessert. It should be enticing but not cute. When I worked at Stars I made a rendition of the Sacrapantina cake from Stella Pastry in North Beach. It was a white cake layered with Marsala- Sherry Zabaglione with chocolate shavings on top and crushed biscotti on the sides. The staff loved it but I couldn’t give it away. After a couple of days I realized no one was ordering it because they didn’t know how to pronounce Sacrapantina and they didn’t want to embarrass themselves by saying it wrong. I changed the name to Tuscan Cream Cake and it sold like crazy. Nuts are always listed so people with allergies will have a heads up. Flavor driving ingredients such as coconut, raspberry, coffee and mango I like to mention even when used as an accent. Their presence influences the overall flavor of a dessert. For example, not everybody likes coconut so I don’t want them to be disappointed if I serve a chocolate banana cream tart and it is covered with candied coconut. It can ruin their night. Unlike most pastry chefs, I am not a fan of chocolate and raspberry together. In a restaurant recently I ordered a warm chocolate cake with coffee ice cream. The cake and the ice cream were both delicious but I was bummed that it had raspberry sauce all over the bottom of the plate. It wasn’t mentioned on the menu and if I had known it was going to be on there I would have ordered something else or asked for the sauce on the side. I know it is a personal quirk of mine but raspberry is a strong flavor and overpowers the chocolate and coffee. The flavors stay separate in my mouth and don’t create a new flavor. Everyone has taste preferences and I want the customers who come to Waterbar or Farallon to be able to dig right into a dessert when it is placed in front of them and not be let down or surprised.

h1

My Cookie Jar Up for Auction

May 17, 2010

 

This is the cookie jar I put together for Meals on Wheels’ Star Chefs and Vintners Gala. It’s filled with lemon cornmeal shortbread, dried cherry pistachio biscotti and chocolate cocoa nib cookies. As part of the silent auction it will be taken home by the highest bidder. Meals on Wheels is a great organization that delivers meals to senior citizens who want to stay in their own home but cannot shop or prepare meals for themselves. It is a national organization and this gala at Fort Mason in San Francisco will benefit people in my city by the Bay. We all need to lend a hand so senior citizens can stay as independent as possible. I hope my cookies help.

 

h1

Strawberry Fields-Almost

April 15, 2010

The winter rains have just about stopped and the sun has allowed us to shed a layer of outerware. This change in weather puts me in the mood for fruit and fruit desserts. Customers at Waterbar and Farallon want them too as there is a definite swing away from chocolate desserts ordered to those with fruit.  I am chomping at the bit to put something colorful and seasonal on the menu besides citrus and pineapple. Strawberries have started to appear in both farmers’ markets and grocery stores and while it is tempting to quickly put some in your cart-pay close attention. Their quality is hit or miss. Some are sweet and juicy (everything you want in a strawberry) while others are bland and mostly white inside with big woody hulls. Strawberries need a little more attention from mother nature before they are at their best. (Beware of long stemmed strawberries seen in quantity around Mother’s Day. They seem to be grown for their stem rather than the flavor of the berry. Ironic when you consider you don’t even eat the stem. Also the price of these goes up around that weekend.)

To get the berry flavor I want and to satisfy my strawberry cravings early in the season I either cook the berries in a crumble or roast the berries. Here’s a recipe for roasting strawberries. You can serve them with anything you would serve fresh sliced strawberries. They come out jam like but are whole so you can use them in desserts. There is quite a bit of sauce left over after you finish making the berries. Reduce it as the recipe states or you can use it to make another batch of roasted berries (I mix it 50-50 with fresh sauce ingredients). It is delicious served over ice cream without any berries. Hopefully this will tide you over until the really beautiful berries are in the market. As an added bonus the kitchen smells wonderful when they are in the oven.

Roasted Strawberries

3 pints (6 cups) fresh strawberries, hulled

3/4 cup Pinot Noir or other dry red wine

3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

1 1/2 cups granulated sugar

3/4 cup light corn syrup

Preheat the oven to 200°F. Put the strawberries in a single layer in an ovenproof baking dish. In a bowl, whisk together the wine, balsamic vinegar, and granulated sugar until the sugar is dissolved. Whisk in the corn syrup. Pour the liquid over the berries. Place the pan in the oven and bake until the strawberries shrink and are jammy in texture, about 5 hours.

Strain the strawberry liquid into a heavy saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat, reduce the heat to a simmer, and cook to reduce the liquid slightly. Let cool to room temperature and stir it back into the berries. Refrigerate until ready to serve.