Archive for the ‘San Francisco, My Hometown’ Category

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SF Chefs Food Wine

August 7, 2009

 

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This Friday I am participating in the first SF Chefs Food Wine weekend in San Francisco.(Check out their website.) There will be cooking demonstrations, tastings and dinners all celebrating the Bay Area’s amazing culinary presence and diversity. My demonstration will be Friday afternoon at 3:30. Entitled Desserts and Sips, I will be sharing the stage with mixologist, Victoria D’Amato-Moran from Cent’Anni Cocktails. (We worked together years ago at Stars restaurant but that‘s another story.) This will be the first time I have paired my desserts with cocktails and I think it will be fun. Yes, I know desserts and cocktails are served at the opposite ends of a meal but they are the best parts of the meal so why separate them?

Here’s the inside scoop of what we are going to do. For our first demo, we are going to take the same ingredients (peaches and strawberries) and I will turn them into a dessert and Victoria will turn them into a cocktail. Same amazing local summer produce with different results. For our second demo Victoria will prepare a cocktail specifically paired to my Chocolate Chocolate White Cupcakes. They are white cupcakes filled with milk chocolate/bittersweet chocolate ganache, frosted with bittersweet frosting and garnished with cocoa nibs. The recipe for the cupcakes is at the end of this blog.

In addition, Friday evening I am being honored, along with three other San Francisco chefs, as Culinary Pioneers. (The other recipients are Joyce Goldstein, Judy Rodgers and Patricia Unterman). I have to say it feels strange to be recognized for a lifetime of work as I don’t think I have been around that long and feel I have a lot of baking left to do.  I know we will have an amazing feast as it is being prepared by Loretta Keller from COCO500 and The Moss Room, Traci Des Jardins from Jardiniere , Gary Danko, from Gary Danko, and Terri Wu from Farallon.

I hope you can make it to the class or dinner but if you can’t here’s the cupcake recipe.

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Chocolate Chocolate White Cupcakes

12 cupcakes

10 tablespoons (1 ¼ sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature

1 1/4 cups sugar

3 large eggs      

1 1/4 cups flour

3/4 teaspoon baking powder

1/8 teaspoon salt

3 tablespoons sour cream

Preheat the oven to 350° F.

Cream the butter and sugar until light.

Add eggs one at a time, making sure to scrape down the bowl.

Stir in the sour cream.

Sift the cake flour, baking powder and salt. Add and mix just until combined.

Line cupcake pans with liners and fill.

Bake until skewer clean, about 15 minutes.

Cool to room temperature. Cut a hole in the center of each cupcake. Fill with the chocolate ganache (see recipe below). Frost with chocolate frosting (see recipe below.)

 

Two Chocolate Ganache

¾ cup cream

3 ounces milk chocolate, coarsely chopped

2 ½ ounces bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped

In a small saucepot bring the cream to a bowl. Remove from the heat and add the chocolate. Let sit for a couple minutes and then whisk until smooth. Refrigerate until pipeable.

Easy Chocolate Frosting

3/4 cup heavy cream

1/2 cup granulated sugar

7 1/2 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped or broken into 1-inch pieces

4 1/2 ounces (12 tablespoons) unsalted butter, room temperature and cut into 1-inch pieces.

Heat the cream and sugar in a small saucepan over medium-high heat until small bubbles form at the edge. Remove from the heat, add the chocolate pieces and swirl the pan gently to make sure the chocolate is covered by the cream. Let sit a couple of minutes and then stir until smooth. Transfer to a bowl and cool to room temperature. Whisk in the butter a little at time. Let sit at room temperature until spreadable.

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Get (TCHO) Chocolate!

July 30, 2009

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If you live in or near San Francisco get over to Pier 17 pronto. If you don’t live in the Bay Area then go to their website. At both places you will find the most amazing chocolate.

I first met Timothy Childs, co founder of TCHO, and the TCHO gang several years ago when Timothy called me to brainstorm about chocolate. What better way to spend a couple of hours talking about one of the things I love best. He was in the middle of beta testing variations of TCHO so of course we nibbled as we chatted. Fast forward several years (but not so fast for them) and TCHO now has a full production facility on a pier over looking San Francisco Bay where they concoct their chocolate.  They are as obsessed with chocolate as I am with desserts.

TCHO creates flavor profiles by bringing out the flavors naturally inherent in the cocoa beans. They don’t add any flavorings. They describe their chocolate in terms that come to mind as you taste them- citrus, fruity, chocolatey, earthy, floral, and nutty. This makes so much sense. Today the chocolate buzz word is percentages. People get so caught up in the numbers they forget to think about what the chocolate tastes like. Percentages on packaging are a good beginning guide but they don’t give you enough information on how the chocolate actually  tastes.  Chocolate with the same percentages is going to taste different from one company to another.

In September TCHO will introduce a 68% blend of Home Baking Drops with their chocolatey flavor profile. You can use it for baking or in chocolate chips. It is the chocolate that we use at the restaurants. In the pastry restaurant world drops are preferred as you don’t have to chop them. A big plus when you are using 5 pounds at a time!

Even though Tim is a scientist I don’t think he has done a study on whether TCHO’s location right next to the Bay adds to the flavor of its chocolate. But as sourdough is best in San Francisco I bet it can’t hurt. When you go to TCHO you will discover the view is enhanced if you gaze at it eating some TCHO chocolate or sipping on a mocha from the retail shop.

Here is a recipe I developed with their chocolatey chocolate.

TCHO Chocolate Caramel Truffles

Yield: about 35

3/4 cup sugar                                   

2 tablespoons water

3 1/2 oz TCHO Chocolatey Chocolate                           

½ cup heavy cream                                     

6 oz unsalted butter, room temp        

Large pinch salt

About 1/3 cup cocoa powder to coat the truffles

                  

In a small pot mix together the sugar and water. Cook over medium heat until the sugar is dissolved. Brush any sugar sticking to the sides of the pot with a wet pastry brush. Increase to high heat and cook until a light caramel color. Remove the pot from the heat. Slowly whisk in the cream and then the chocolate. Whisk in butter about tablespoon at a time. Refrigerate until firm.

Using a melon baller, #100 scoop or a teaspoon, scoop the truffles. If needed roll gently in your hands to form into circles. Place the cocoa powder in a pan or large plate. Roll truffles in cocoa powder. (If at any time the truffles get too soft to roll put in the fridge to firm up.) Keep refrigerated until serving.

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Anatomy of a Dessert or Testing, Retesting and Testing Again

July 17, 2009

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Whether it is for one of my books, a magazine, or the dessert menus at Farallon or Waterbar, testing recipes is a slow process. Very rarely do I come up with an idea, try it once and love it.  I wish I had more testing days like that but they are few and far between. The reality is that sometime I make the same dessert 5 times before I feel it has hit that “worth the calories” bar of approval.

For the dessert menu at Waterbar, Robyn, Theresa (my pastry cohorts) and I have been working on a German Chocolate dessert. Most people are familiar with German Chocolate Cake- chocolate cake with a custard like layer of coconut, brown sugar and pecans. I wanted that general idea but I was looking to change it up. I thought the pecans, coconut and chocolate combination with ice cream formed in individual ring molds would be delicious.

My first attempt was vanilla ice cream with a German Chocolate swirl. No matter how stiff I cooked the custard it dissolved in the ice cream and did not make a ribbon. I then tried warming the coconut pecan custard and pouring it over the top and down the sides of the ice cream but it was quite unattractive. I switched to spreading the room temperature coconut mixture on top of the ice cream. I didn’t want just plain vanilla ice cream so I swirled in a milk chocolate ganache. Next I had to decide on the base of the ice cream bombe. (If I put the ice cream directly on the plate it would slide all over the place as the waiter carried it to the table.)  I tried both brownies and a coarsely chopped pecan and brown sugar mixture brought together with melted butter. I thought I would like the brownie the best as the pecans and brown sugar would be too sweet. But with chocolate sauce on the bottom of the plate the brownie made the overall dessert too chocolatey, covering up the coconut and pecan flavor. I reduced the amount of sugar in the pecan brown sugar mixture and that worked. Now that I had the pecan flavor in the crust I decided to take the pecans out of the coconut filling as I was concerned they would become soggy. To finish it off for garnish I added some toasted coconut around the pool of chocolate sauce and some candied pecans halves on top. Finally the dessert was complete. German Chocolate in a new form.

After testing a dessert this many times and even though I think I have it, I like to have others try it for a new perspective. My taste buds need a break. That’s where the staff comes in.  You don’t have to leave a dessert with a bunch of spoons on the pastry table long before sous chefs and waiters will ask with a smile- “What’s that, do you need a taster?” They are the best, always willing to help out when called for duty. It’s rough but someone has to do it.

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